Answers to Frequently Asked EV Questions

Click one of the three headers below to jump down to those questions/answers.

COST OF OWNERSHIP

  • What’s the rush to buy an EV?

  • Aren’t EVs expensive? Can they actually save me money?

  • Should I buy a new or used EV?

  • Should I consider leasing?

  • What maintenance is required for an EV?

  • Where can I look to purchase a new or used EV?

  • What impact would Oregon's proposed new per-mile fee or “road usage charge" for EVs have on the cost of ownership?

Battery & Charging

  • How do I charge at home, and how much will it cost?

  • How long do EV batteries last, and what’s the replacement cost?

  • How long does it take to charge an EV?​

  • Are there enough chargers available to travel long distances?

  • What happens if an EV runs out of charge on the road?​

  • Do roadside assistance plans cover EVs?

Safety & Performance

  • How safe are EVs relative to gas vehicles?

  • Can an EV handle rough terrain, towing, or farm work?

  • How do EVs perform in cold weather conditions?​

  • What if my EV breaks down? Who can fix it?

  • Can the rural power grid handle more EVs? Won’t they cause blackouts?

  • Can I use my EV’s battery for backup power during an outage?

Cost of Ownership

What’s the rush to buy an EV?

Federal and state incentives are still available, but for a limited time. Oregon’s Standard Rebate ends on September 8th, and Federal incentives end on September 30th.

Federal incentives ending September 30th:

  • A $7,500 federal tax credit is available to eligible buyers that purchase or finance a qualifying new EV.

  • A $4,000 federal tax credit is available to eligible buyers of used EVs purchased from a licensed dealer.

State of Oregon incentives:

  • The Oregon Clean Vehicle Rebate Program (OCVRP) Standard Rebate offers up to $2,500 at the point of purchase to all Oregonians, regardless of income, when buying or leasing a new EV with a price tag of $50,000 or less.

  • Even more – up to $7,500 – is available to income-qualified Oregonians through the OCVRP’s Charge Ahead Rebate program. The same price cap of $50,000 applies, and this cannot be combined with the OCVRP Standard Rebate. The Charge Ahead Rebate program also offers a $5,000 subsidy on used EVs purchased from a licensed dealer.

  • The Standard Rebate will no longer be available after 11:59 pm on Monday, September 8, 2025, due to high demand and limited funding. However, the Charge Ahead Rebate will remain open to all eligible applicants for as long as funds remain.

Check the OCVRP website and talk to your local dealer for all the details.

Aren’t EVs expensive? Can they actually save me money?

Many EVs are quite affordable and prices keep dropping, but some still cost more than comparable gas vehicles, especially before the incentives described above. On the other hand, EVs have significantly lower fuel and maintenance costs than gas cars. Driving on retail electricity typically costs $0.03 to $0.04 per mile vs. $0.12 to $0.15 per mile for gas, so if you drive 15,000 miles annually, an EV can save you $1,000+ every year. Check out our calculator to estimate your fuel savings.

As AAA and others have reported on extensively, maintenance costs are also significantly less for EVs, which have very few moving parts and require no oil changes, exhaust repairs, or tune-ups.

Gas price fluctuations, local electricity prices, and the cost of installing a home charger all influence the math, but for high-mileage drivers who can charge mostly at home, EV savings add up quickly—particularly for people who drive a lot of miles and buy a more basic or used EV.

Should I buy a new or used EV?

Many people are better off buying a high-quality, low-mileage used EV, or leasing a new vehicle, rather than paying top-dollar for a new one. 3 to 5-year-old models cost $10,000–$25,000 less than comparable new models, and used EV buyers who meet income limits can still qualify for federal and state incentives.

There can, of course, be drawbacks of buying used. First, older EVs may have battery degradation or repair needs. The most popular used EV models are in high demand and can be hard to find. Older EVs also lack the latest driver-assistance and infotainment systems, have older battery technology with lower range, and sometimes also have significantly slower charging speeds.

A lot of savvy buyers focus on the lightly-used, late model EV market, and one of the best places to shop is with one of our partners, Platt Auto, in Gladstone, Oregon. They only sell used EVs, and their staff are exceptionally knowledgeable and helpful.

Should I consider leasing?

Leasing an EV can be a smart choice depending on your finances, driving habits, and preferences, but it has trade-offs. Here’s a concise breakdown of pros and cons.

Advantages of Leasing:

  • Lower upfront costs: Leasing often involves a lower down payment and monthly payments than traditional financing.

  • Access to incentives: The $7,500 federal EV tax credit can reduce lease costs, as dealerships can claim it and pass savings to you, no tax liability required.

  • Evolving technology: EV technology advances rapidly, and leasing lets you drive a new model for 2–4 years and upgrade without resale hassles.

  • Maintenance included: Lease terms tend to align with warranties (3–4 years), and cover most repairs.

  • Less risk: Leasing suits people who are still unsure about EV ownership due to charging infrastructure or other concerns. It also avoids the risk of rapid depreciation.

Disadvantages of Leasing:

  • No ownership: You won’t ever own the EV unless you buy out the lease.

  • Mileage and wear limits: Leases cap mileage at 10,000–15,000 miles/year, with fees (e.g., $0.15–$0.25/mile) for excess miles. Excessive wear (e.g., damaged interior) also incurs costs.

  • Higher overall costs: Leasing can cost more over time than buying. A $40,000 EV leased at $500/month for three years costs $18,000, while financing at $700/month for five years costs $42,000 – but the buyer then owns the vehicle.

What maintenance is required for an EV?

Studies show that electric vehicle owners can expect to spend significantly less on maintenance than for a comparable internal combustion car because EVs have fewer moving parts and simpler powertrains.

EVs still need regular care to ensure optimal performance, safety, and longevity. Routine maintenance includes maintaining tire pressure, rotating tires, replacing wiper blades and fluid, and replacing cabin air filters. Some manufacturers also recommend periodic maintenance like checking brake fluid, battery coolant, and checking the suspension, alignment, and high-voltage system. Monitoring your car’s battery health and performing regular software updates are also recommended.

Where can I look to purchase a new or used EV?

We’ve pulled together links for you, depending on your needs. Visit this page for the details.

What impact would Oregon's proposed new per-mile fee or “road usage charge" for EVs have on the cost of ownership?

Here in Oregon, there’s a lot of noise and confusion about the governor’s proposal for a new “road tax” on EVs. We want to make sure everyone has the facts straight.

Oregon’s transportation budget has a problem. For decades, we’ve paid for road maintenance mostly through gas taxes. But as more people switch to EVs and buy less gas, that revenue is shrinking fast. State leaders say the shortfall is already in the hundreds of millions, which is forcing hard choices like possible layoffs and even closed maintenance shops.

What’s being proposed isn’t really a “new tax,” but rather a fairer way to share the cost of maintaining the roads we all use. Starting in 2027 or 2028, EV drivers would have a choice: pay about 2.0–2.3 cents per mile ($200-$230 for 10,000 miles) or a flat $340 per year. But the broader financial context is key:

Today: EV owners pay steep extra registration fees—about $316 every two years, compared with $86 to $156 for a gas car (depending on efficiency).

Under the new law: Everyone, including EV owners, will pay the same base registration—about $85 per year. On top of that base fee, gas drivers will keep paying at the pump through fuel taxes—which are set to rise from 40¢ to 46¢ per gallon in 2026—while EV drivers will pay based on how much they drive.

For the average Oregon EV driver—around 10,000 miles a year—that works out to roughly $127–$157 more per year than today, depending on the exact per-mile rate.

The bottom line: it doesn’t have a massive impact on the bottom line.

The business case for EVs is still strong—it just takes cutting through the noise and doing the math.

As for any privacy concerns related to GPS tracking your miles, the system will offer options that don’t involve GPS—like submitting odometer photos or using a simple mileage counter.

Battery & Charging

How do I charge at home, and how much will it cost?

We recommend talking to a trusted electrician, and then buying a J1772 and/or NACS-compatible Level 2 charger (240V, 7.2–11.5 kW) for home charging. A Level 2 charger can add 20–60 miles of range per hour of charging, for zero-to-full charging in 6–12 hours (i.e. overnight).

Before incentives, buying and installing a Level 2 home charger costs between $900 and $5,000, depending on several factors. Chargers cost between $300 and $1,000 and installation usually costs between $600 and $2,000. If an electrical panel upgrade is needed, that could set you back another $1,000-$3,000. But a range of EV charger tax credits, state incentives, and utility rebates can total as much as $1,500-$2,000, so your net cost for a home charger can end up very low, and sometimes even free.

Make sure you know your EV’s battery size and port type (J1772 vs. NACS) before you get a quote for a charger, and have your electrician look at your electrical panel before finalizing their installation quote. Apply for rebates with your local utility and/or state, and claim the federal credit via IRS Form 8911. Use your zip code to check the Alternative Fuels Data Center for locally-available charger rebates.

If you already have a conveniently-located 220-volt receptacle (e.g. a clothes dryer receptacle or a welding plug in your garage) consider using a NeoCharge Smart Splitter to eliminate the need for a new 220-volt circuit and/or a panel upgrade. NeoCharge is a partner of EVmath and, thanks to their generosity, we’re pleased to offer a $70 discount through this link.

If you can’t charge at home, workplace charging can be a great option if your employer offers it. Some companies offer Level 2 workplace charging as a free perk, but even if you have to pay for the electricity, it’s almost always cheaper than public fast charging.

Level 1 (120-volt) chargers are much slower than Level 2 chargers, and are really only viable for people who drive less than 30 miles/day.

How long do EV batteries last, and what’s the replacement cost?

A recent study found that many EV batteries last 20+ years, with top-performing brands still retaining 70–90% of their original capacity.

If you’re considering buying a used EV, ask the seller for a battery health report. It will provide insight into the battery’s State of Health (SoH), expected current range, and projected future range.

Battery replacements typically cost $5,000 or more, including parts and labor, so make sure you have a firm quote before you buy a used EV with a degraded battery. And whether you buy new or used, keep track of your EV’s battery warranty, because it’s typically transferable and good for 8 years or 100,000–150,000 miles. Battery warranties usually cover repair or replacement for defects.

If you do buy an EV, you can extend its battery life by:

  • Avoiding frequent full charges or deep discharges. EV batteries last longest if they stay between 20% and 80% charged.

  • Reducing the amount of DC fast charging. Charge mostly at home or at work using Level 2 chargers whenever possible.

  • Parking in shaded or moderate-temperature areas whenever possible. Batteries degrade more quickly if they’re repeatedly exposed to extreme temperatures.

How long does it take to charge an EV?

The time it takes to charge an EV varies based on the vehicle’s maximum charging rate and battery size, and the charger type.

The car’s maximum charging rate is more important than many EV buyers realize. If the charger’s output exceeds the car’s maximum charging rate, the vehicle caps the rate and slows down charging. This won’t be a major inconvenience if you’re not using your car for road trips and charging mostly overnight at home, but if you frequently travel long distances and rely on public fast chargers, slow charge rates can be frustrating. For example, a Rivian can accept up to 220 kW and a Tesla Model 3 Long Range can accept up to 250 kW; however, a Fiat 500e’s charge rate is 85 kW, a Chevy Bolt’s charge rate is 55 kW, and an older Nissan Leaf’s is 50 kW. This makes Rivians, Teslas, and other late-model EVs more convenient for long-distance road-trips than Bolts, Leafs, or the 500e, all of which are great for commuting and local driving, but not ideal for long road trips.

Here’s a breakdown of the typical charging speeds of the three charger types:

Level 3, aka DC Fast Chargers (DCFC) or Superchargers, add 150-200 miles in 20-30 minutes for most modern EVs, and are great during long trips. DCFC stations and Tesla Superchargers are common along major highways and are usually near restaurants, bathrooms, and coffee shops. To find them, use your in-car navigation system or a third-party app like PlugShare or A Better Route Planner (ABRP).

Level 2 chargers (240 volts, like a dryer outlet or a welding plug) add 25-40 miles of range per hour, so fully charging a 60-100 kWh battery takes 6-12 hours. Level 2 chargers are ideal for overnight at-home charging, workplace charging, or destination charging at hotels, B&Bs, restaurants, and shopping centers. Some employers and destinations offer free Level 2 charging as a perk.

Level 1 charging (standard 120-volt outlet) is increasingly rare because it only adds 3-5 miles of range per hour. For a typical EV with a 60-100 kWh battery (200-300 miles range), a full charge takes 40-60 hours, so using a Level 1 charger is impractical for daily use except for very low-mileage drivers.

Are there enough chargers available to travel long distances?

Long-distance travel is practical for Teslas and newer EVs that can charge quickly using Level 3 chargers including the Tesla Supercharger network. Newer EVs’ navigation systems automatically map charging stops and simplify route planning. Careful planning remains essential for older non-Tesla EVs. Tesla drivers usually carry a J1772 and CCS1 adapter in case they need access to non-Tesla chargers, and non-Tesla EV drivers traveling long distances should carry a NACS adapter and be clear as to whether or not they can access Tesla’s Supercharger network.

To plan long-distance travel, account for your EV’s real-world range, which can drop to 70% of the EPA-rated range due to cold weather, high speeds (70+ mph), climate control, headwinds, and elevation changes. Start with a full charge, ensure proper tire inflation, and use tools like PlugShare, A Better Route Planner (ABRP), Chargeway, or Tesla’s Supercharger map to locate fast chargers and to verify their uptime status, especially in remote areas.

New EVs can typically go 300 miles on a charge, but older, lower-mileage EVs sometimes need 1–2 Level 3 fast-charging stops to go that far. Fast charging costs $0.25–$0.50/kWh, making it comparable to $3/gallon gas for a 25 MPG car, so relying primarily on Level 3 chargers doesn’t save much money on long road trips.

Travelers are advised to use inexpensive Level 2 chargers whenever practicable during road trips. They offer ~30 miles of range per hour and are increasingly common – and sometimes free – at hotels, B&Bs, restaurants, and campgrounds.

Many EV owners carry a Level 1 cable because it can be plugged into any standard 110v outlet, though it’ll only add 3-5 miles per hour of charging.

What happens if an EV runs out of charge on the road?​

Running out of charge in an EV is a lot like running out of gas or diesel—the vehicle just stops. Modern EVs give their drivers a heads-up with flashing alerts and beeping sounds as the battery gets low. Some EVs kick into “turtle mode” (cute dashboard icon included), slowing down to minimize drag and eke out every last mile of range. This buys time to pull over safely or get to a nearby charger. Once an EV’s battery is totally zapped, it either has to be towed or charged by a mobile charging service like the one offered by AAA.

To avoid these hassles, experienced EV drivers watch their battery’s state of charge and keep a cable and/or an adapter in their car for emergencies. Fun fact: only about 4% of EV breakdowns are from dead batteries. Flat tires are far more common.

Do roadside assistance plans cover EVs?

Most roadside assistance plans, like AAA, RAC, Green Flag, and NRMA treat EVs just like gas-powered cars, with no extra cost. They cover towing, flat tire fixes, lockouts, or issues with EV’s 12-volt batteries, which power auxiliary systems. Roadside assistance plans typically will tow a vehicle home or to a nearby charger or dealership, though some plans have limits and exceptions.

Safety & Performance

How safe are EVs relative to gas vehicles?

EVs are generally as safe as or safer than gas vehicles, with distinct advantages and some unique challenges:

  • Crash safety: EVs have a lower center of gravity due to heavy battery packs, reducing rollover risk, and larger crumple zones (no front engine) which improve collision protection. They also often come with standard driver-assistance features like collision avoidance. Many EVs earn 5-star NHTSA ratings. By contrast, gas vehicles, especially trucks and SUVs, have higher rollover risks and smaller crumple zones, though some newer models also achieve high safety ratings.

  • Fire risk: A study by AutoInsuranceEZ, using data from the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) and Bureau of Transportation Statistics (BTS), found that ICE vehicles had 1,530 fires per 100,000 vehicles, compared to 25.1 fires per 100,000 EVs. This translates to a fire risk for ICE vehicles about 61 times higher than for EVs. However, it’s also true that EV battery fires burn hotter and are harder to extinguish and require specialized techniques.

  • Emergency response: EVs require first responders to have training for high-voltage systems and battery fires, which may not be available in all areas, so gas vehicles are safer for first responders in less-prepared regions.

  • Cameras and sensors: Many EVs have state of the art cameras, sensors, blind spot warnings, and alert systems that help drivers avoid collisions in the first place.

  • A few other factors: EVs’ over-the-air software updates often address safety issues more quickly and thoroughly than standard recalls. Also, since 2019 EVs’ silent operation has been mitigated by mandatory pedestrian warning sounds.

Overall, EVs excel in crash safety and have lower fire risks, but battery fires and emergency response challenges require specialized training, which is becoming more common and will help improve EV safety.

Can an EV handle rough terrain, towing, or farm work?

Yes, but their suitability depends on the model and conditions.

For rough terrain, many EVs, especially electric trucks and utility vehicles, perform very well. The Rivian R1T, with quad-motor all-wheel drive, 835 hp, and 14.9 inches of ground clearance, rivals gas-powered off-roaders on steep inclines and rocky trails.

In terms of towing, the Ford F-150 Lightning can pull up to 10,000 lbs, the Rivian R1T 11,000 lbs, and the upcoming Ram 1500 REV aims for 14,000 lbs., and instant torque provides excellent acceleration under load. However, towing significantly reduces range–for example, the Rivian’s 314 miles of range drops to 150-170 miles with a 9,000-lb trailer.

Other advantages to an EV: the quiet motors minimize disturbance to livestock and wildlife, slash fuel costs, and don’t spark range fires.

How do EVs perform in cold weather conditions?​

Electric vehicles perform well in cold weather. In fact, despite exceptionally harsh winters, they are wildly popular in very cold places like Norway and Sweden. They start easily, offer strong torque, and handle very well in ice and snow.

However, they do face some challenges due to battery chemistry and energy demands. Range drops 20-40% in extreme cold (i.e.below 20°F/-6°C) as chemical reactions slow, per AAA tests. Charging slows too, especially fast-charging, though some cars automatically “precondition” or warm up their batteries as they approach a charger, which speeds up charge times. Cabin heating draws battery power and can cut range significantly, though newer models’ heat pump heaters are more efficient.

For better cold-weather performance, buyers should consider newer EV models with heat pumps, and plan to heat up the car and battery to “precondition” the car while it’s still plugged in. Using seat heaters rather than cabin heat also conserves power.

What if my EV breaks down? Who can fix it?

Most EV breakdowns are minor and quickly fixed through the manufacturer. EVs have fewer moving parts than gas vehicles, reducing issues like engine or transmission failures. However, battery problems, software glitches, charging port issues, flat tires, or a dead 12V battery (for lights and accessories) do occur. Here’s a quick guide to how EV owners get back on the road:

  • Rely on the manufacturer: Experienced owners quickly learn that their EV’s manufacturer is usually the best option for repairs. Tesla, Rivian, and Lucid have dedicated service centers. Their customers can book service calls via their apps, and Tesla offers mobile service vans for many minor fixes. Owners of legacy brand EVs from Ford, GM, Kia, or Hyundai typically use certified dealerships with EV-trained technicians. Minor repairs take 1-2 days, but battery and other more serious issues may take longer.

  • Independent shops: EV-specialized independent shops exist but are rare. Most still lack tools or parts for complex repairs like batteries or motors. EVs are very different from traditional gas cars so it's important to confirm a shop’s capabilities before dropping off an EV for repairs.

  • Repair timelines: Batteries or motors may take a week or longer for parts to arrive, especially for newer models, but tires and brakes tend to be readily available.

Can the rural power grid handle more EVs? Won’t they cause blackouts?

Utilities constantly upgrade their generation capacity, storage, transmission, and distribution infrastructure, but even the existing grid can handle a lot more EVs because most charging occurs off-peak (at night), when electricity demand is relatively low. Smart charging can be used to schedule chargers to turn on during low-demand times, and some home battery storage systems can also shift load to off-peak periods. Recent pilot projects show that EVs can even help stabilize the grid via vehicle-to-grid (V2G) technology, which discharges power from vehicle batteries back into the grid during shortages. A U.S. Department of Energy study notes that:

EVs’ relationship to the grid can be a symbiotic one because they offer flexibility in the time and location where they use energy, they may sit idle for long periods of time, and they store energy in the vehicle battery that could be used for non-transportation applications.

Can I use my EV’s battery for backup power during an outage?

Certain EVs can provide backup power during an outage through Vehicle-to-Home (V2H) or Vehicle-to-Load (V2L) capabilities, but it depends on the vehicle, equipment, and setup.

Examples of EV models that support bidirectional charging, which allows their batteries to power external devices or homes, include the Ford F-150 Lightning, some Tesla models (e.g., Cybertruck, and newer Model Y/Model 3 with PowerShare and specific hardware like the Tesla Powerwall or Powershare Gateway), Nissan Leaf, Hyundai Inoniq, Kia EV6 and EV9, Chevy Silverado EV, and GMC Sierra EV.